I went to Buscalan to get a traditional Kalinga tattoo and hopefully meet Apo Whang-Od.
I got my main tattoo from one of the younger mambabatok and was also lucky enough to meet Apo Whang-Od and get her signature tattoo.
A lot has changed since that trip, particularly the route going up to Buscalan. I checked the latest information I could find for 2026. If you are planning a trip to Buscalan, this guide covers how to get there from Manila, current guide and accommodation costs, what to expect when getting a batok tattoo, plus a sample itinerary and budget.
Last updated: September 2026. Fares and local prices can change, so use the amounts below as a guide rather than fixed rates.
Getting to Buscalan
Buscalan is a mountain village in Tinglayan, Kalinga, home to the Butbut people and known for its traditional hand-tapped tattoos or batok.
There’s no direct bus from Manila to Buscalan. If you are commuting, you will usually travel through Bontoc or Tabuk before continuing toward Tinglayan.
Manila to Buscalan via Bontoc
For travelers coming from Metro Manila, the Bontoc route is probably the easiest one to start with.
Coda Lines operates buses between Quezon City and Bontoc. An overnight trip makes the most sense so you can arrive in Bontoc the following morning.
Manila/Quezon City → Bontoc
Travel time: around 10–11 hours
Fare: around ₱1,000–₱1,300+
From Bontoc, take a jeepney, van or bus heading toward Tinglayan/Tabuk and coordinate with your guide about where to get off.
Bontoc → Buscalan area
Travel time: around 2–3 hours
Fare: around ₱150–₱250
I wouldn’t plan the Bontoc connection down to the minute. Local transportation can vary, so this is one detail I’d confirm with the guide before leaving Manila.
Manila to Buscalan via Tabuk
The other option is:
Manila → Tabuk → Tinglayan → Buscalan
As of April 2026, modernized air-conditioned PUVs are operating between Tabuk and Tinglayan. The fare from Tabuk to Tinglayan Poblacion was ₱250 when the service launched, with two daily trips reported in each direction.
This route is worth considering if you are already coming from Tabuk or somewhere closer to that side of Kalinga.
Guide and Trek to the Village
Visitors to Buscalan are required to coordinate with a local guide. When I last checked the Municipality of Tinglayan’s published rates, the guide fees were:
| Group Size | Guide Fee |
|---|---|
| 1–5 people | ₱1,000/day |
| 6–10 people | ₱2,000/day |
| 11–15 people | ₱3,000/day |
| 16–20 people | ₱4,000/day |
| 21–25 people | ₱5,000/day |
The fee is per group. If there are five of you sharing a ₱1,000 guide, that’s ₱200 each per day.
You can contact Buscalan Local Guide on Facebook to ask about availability, current guide fees, homestay arrangements, and transportation. Your guide can also help arrange your homestay and tell you the best drop-off point based on the current road access.
When I first visited, we did the longer trek going up to Buscalan. Recent travelers have reported using a newer access route and hanging bridge that can make the walk considerably shorter.
Some 2026 reports put the newer walk at around 10–15 minutes, while Tinglayan’s official tourism information still lists the traditional Bugnay–Mar-o to Buscalan route at around four kilometers or two hours.
So if you’ve read conflicting information about the trek online, that’s probably why. Ask your guide which route you’ll be taking.
Either way, I’d pack light and wear comfortable shoes.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Buscalan is mostly through local homestays rather than hotels.
They are generally simple, and some facilities may be shared. Recent 2026 visitor information puts homestays at around ₱400 per person per night, although I’d set aside around ₱400–₱800 depending on the accommodation.
Your guide can usually help arrange one, which saves you from having to contact different homestays yourself.
For a short visit, I’d stay at least one night. If you’re getting a larger tattoo or simply don’t want to rush the trip, two nights would give you more time.
Getting Tattooed by Apo Whang-Od
This was the main reason I wanted to go.
Traditional Kalinga batok is done by hand using a thorn attached to a bamboo stick. Instead of a tattoo machine, the ink is tapped repeatedly into the skin.
There are several mambabatok in Buscalan, including younger artists who continue the tradition.
My main tattoo was done by one of the younger mambabatok.
Prices depend on the artist, design and size, so there isn’t one standard rate for every tattoo. For a small to medium piece, I’d budget around ₱500–₱3,000+. Larger designs can cost much more.
Choose your design and agree on the price before the tattooing starts.

After getting my main tattoo, I was also able to meet Apo Whang-Od and get her signature three dots.
As of 2026, Whang-Od is 109 years old. She may still receive visitors and tattoo when she’s able, but this depends on her health and availability.
The three-dot signature tattoo is around ₱300, while a photo with Whang-Od is around ₱100 and the bamboo tattoo stick around ₱150.
If you are hoping to meet Apo Whang-Od, ask your guide for availability before your visit.
DIY or Joiner Tour?
You don’t have to commute all the way to Buscalan on your own. There are plenty of joiner tours from Manila as well.
A joiner tour is the easier option if you don’t want to deal with the transfers. Transportation, accommodation and a local guide are usually arranged for you, although inclusions vary by organizer.
If you are comparing packages, check whether the price includes the guide, homestay, meals and local fees. Tattoo costs are usually separate.
Here’s one Buscalan tour organizer you can check for current schedules and packages.
DIY, on the other hand, gives you more control over your time. It makes more sense if you want to stay longer, make other stops in the Cordilleras or simply prefer traveling at your own pace.
Sample 2D1N Itinerary
I wouldn’t make this itinerary too rigid because your actual schedule will depend on the bus, local transportation and how long your tattoo takes.
| Day | Plan |
|---|---|
| Day 0 | Evening bus from Quezon City to Bontoc |
| Day 1 | Arrive Bontoc → breakfast → travel toward Buscalan → meet guide → trek to village → check in → lunch → explore → tattoo session |
| Day 2 | Breakfast → explore / finish tattoo if needed → check out → return to Bontoc → overnight bus to Manila |
I’d leave enough time between returning from Buscalan and catching the bus from Bontoc. The schedule above works better as a general route than something you need to follow by the hour.
How Much Should You Budget?
For this sample, I’m assuming 2D1N via Bontoc, with five people sharing the ₱1,000 guide fee.
| Expense | Estimated Cost |
|---|---|
| Manila → Bontoc | ₱1,000–₱1,300 |
| Bontoc → Buscalan area | ₱150–₱250 |
| Guide share | ₱200 |
| Homestay | ₱400–₱800 |
| Food | ₱500–₱800 |
| Batok tattoo | ₱500–₱3,000+ |
| Whang-Od three dots, if available | ₱300 |
| Return local transportation | ₱150–₱250 |
| Bontoc → Manila | ₱1,000–₱1,300 |
| Estimated Total | ₱4,200–₱7,400+ |
I’d bring around ₱8,000 in cash for this trip, and more if you’re planning to get a bigger tattoo.
That also gives you some allowance for local fees, souvenirs or unexpected expenses.
Before You Go
Don’t bring a lot on this trip.
A backpack, cash and small bills, comfortable shoes, rain protection, water, a power bank and whatever you need for tattoo aftercare should cover the important things. I’d also screenshot your guide’s contact information and transportation details before heading into the mountains.
A little respect goes a long way too. Ask before taking close-up photos of people, especially around their homes, and follow your guide’s advice while you’re in the village.
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